Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at . As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.
Early life and education Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers. He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first and routes in Rifle.
After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder, Hong climbed his first route, Papichulo in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016.
Climbing career
Sport climbing In 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of the sport climbing route, Bad Girls Club, in Rifle and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle.
In May 2018, he climbed the graded sport climbing route, Fight or Flight, in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods.
In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to from after multiple holds broke making the climb harder. In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to .
In May 2023, Hong made the 20th ascent of Sharma's 2001 route, Realization/Biographie , in Ceuse.
Competition climbing
As a competition climber, Hong competed at IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in 2009 and 2010 in the Male Youth Junior (age 17–19) category. He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth.
Notable ascents
Redpoint
Fight or Flight, Oliana, Spain, 2018 Flex Luthor, Fortress of Solitude, Colorado, 2021.
Realization/Biographie, Ceuse. France, 2023. La Rambla, Siurana, Spain, 2017 Papichulo, Oliana, Spain, 2017 Joe Mama, Oliana, Spain, 2017
First ascent
Bad Girls Club, Rifle, Colorado, 2011 Planet Garbage (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2014 Stocking Stuffer (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2017
La Cucaracha, Rifle, Colorado, 2015 Apple Juice Flood, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016 Sweet Tooth, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016
Onsight
Logical Progression, El Gigante, Mexico
Mind Control, Oliana, Catalunya
Bouldering
Warrior Up, Lincoln Lake, Colorado, 2012 Dreamtime, Ticino, Switzerland, 2020
Competition climbing Sixth Place, 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup, Boulder CO
Filmography Break on Through (2017), director, featured on Reel Rock 12
References
External links
The North Face profile UKclimbing.com profile Matty Hong's profile on theCrag